In the world of horology, where tradition meets innovation, the term 'microbrand' has become a hotly debated topic. As an expert editorial writer, I find myself questioning whether it's time to retire this label, which has become synonymous with both creativity and confusion. The rise of microbrands has been a fascinating journey, but it's now time to explore alternative ways of categorizing these small, independent watchmakers.
The Microbrand Conundrum
Once upon a time, the term 'microbrand' was a badge of honor. It represented a small, passionate team taking creative risks, free from the constraints of large corporations and decades of heritage. Brands like Studio Underd0g, Baltic, and Christopher Ward embraced this identity, building loyal followings among collectors who valued their independence and originality. However, as the market has evolved, so has the perception of microbrands.
Today, the term has become associated with both the innovative and the generic. While there are still small, independent watchmakers pushing the boundaries of design and engineering, there are also those who simply assemble catalogue parts with little to distinguish themselves beyond a logo and a colorful dial. This has led to a divide among successful smaller brands, who now find themselves in an awkward position, struggling to define their identity within the microbrand umbrella.
Reimagining the Label
So, what's the solution? In my opinion, it's time to move away from the term 'microbrand' and embrace more nuanced descriptions. 'Small independent' or 'indie' are terms that provide a meaningful insight into the business without implying a particular level of quality, production volume, or stage of development. These labels recognize that independence is often the defining characteristic, not the size of the company.
However, I'm not suggesting we abandon the term altogether. If collectors still associate 'microbrand' with passionate people making interesting watches outside the industry's biggest players, then perhaps the term isn't hurting brands at all. Maybe it's simply become too broad to be genuinely helpful. Either way, it's an interesting discussion, and I have a feeling it won't be the last time the watch industry finds itself debating what a microbrand actually is.
The Week in Watch News
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery: Art and Horology Collide
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery has never been about simply displaying watches. Since its opening in Geneva in 2011, it has championed the intersection of horology, engineering, and kinetic art, giving mechanical creators a platform outside the traditional gallery world. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, the gallery has invited some of its longest-standing collaborators back for special limited editions, with the latest coming from British artist Martin Smith.
The Solar Orbiter, Smith's latest creation, is a mesmerizing kinetic watch winder that blurs the line between sculpture and horological accessory. Standing 60cm tall and built from over 300 handcrafted components, it quietly rotates a watch while incorporating playful references to Smith's earlier M.A.D.Gallery works. Just 10 numbered examples will be produced, each supplied in a bespoke wooden crate with a signed screen-printed certificate. It's a refreshing reminder that not every horological talking point needs to be a new watch; sometimes, the stories worth telling sit just outside the industry.
Shinola's Brand Campaign: A New Story
American brand Shinola has spent the past decade telling stories about Detroit, craftsmanship, and its flagship Runwell watch. However, surprisingly, it has never launched a dedicated brand campaign. That changes with 'Set the Pace', the company's first-ever campaign, fronted by Succession star Nicholas Braun, who also directs the short film 'The Restaurant'.
In 'The Restaurant', Braun delivers a cinematic experience where the relentless ticking of his Runwell transforms an ordinary dinner into a race against time. Rather than focusing on specifications or heritage, 'Set the Pace' explores our complicated relationship with time itself. It's an interesting shift for a company that has relied on the strength of its products and Detroit identity. Whether it succeeds or not, it's an intriguing move, launching a brand campaign more than a decade after the flagship watch's debut.
The First Rolex Daytona Rainbow: Under the Hammer
Rainbow Daytonas are no strangers to the auction block, but this one is different. First State Auctions in Australia has become the first auction house anywhere in the world to offer Rolex's latest off-catalogue Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow, reference 126598RBOW, making it Lot #1 alongside several other special pieces. While previous-generation Rainbow references have appeared at auction, this is the first time the new 126 reference has done so.
With a retail price of US$324,700 and availability measured by relationships rather than waiting lists, the secondary market was always going to have its say. At the time of writing, bidding has already reached A$395,000, with just a few days remaining before the hammer falls on Sunday. Whether it ultimately exceeds its estimate of over A$500,000 remains to be seen, but the result will provide the first real indication of how collectors value Rolex's latest Rainbow Daytona in the open market.
Wrist Shot of the Week: A Tasty Tonda
Corey, known as @enthuseddad, caught my attention with these shots of his gorgeous Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Minute Rattrapante. He's lustfully sporting it on a grey rubber strap, paired with a dial that somehow manages to make grey look sensational. It's a carousel of beautiful shots, showcasing the watch's elegance and versatility.
Time+Tide Shop Pick of the Week: Wren Diver One Obsidian
Wren's second collaboration with Ben's Watches builds on the success of last year's Diver One Magma. The Wren Diver One Obsidian wraps its molten orange fumé dial in a stealthy black DLC-coated case and bracelet, creating a striking contrast. Measuring 41mm with 200 meters of water resistance and powered by the dependable Sellita SW200 automatic movement, it remains an enthusiast-focused everyday dive watch. Limited to an initial run of 100 numbered pieces, it's another confident evolution of a distinctive entry in the independent dive watch scene.
It's exclusive to the USA, and there are only a few left, but you can order the Wren Diver One Obsidian online at the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$1,195
Our Favorite Time+Tide Coverage of the Week
Which Omega Speedmaster Should I Buy?: The White Dial Moonwatch
The white-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional has quickly become one of the year's most talked-about releases. Andrew and Justin take an honest look at the watch, exploring its design, history, wearability, and why it might just be the Speedmaster to win over a new generation of collectors.
Where the First Automatic Wristwatch Was Really Made
Russell travels to the Fortis manufacture in Grenchen to uncover the remarkable origins of the world's first serially produced automatic wristwatch and why history hasn't given John Harwood the recognition he deserves.
Vacheron Constantin Innovations: From Twin Beat to Overseas Ultra-Thin
Andrew, Justin, and Vacheron Constantin's Christian Selmoni explore five extraordinary timepieces from the brand's archives, revealing how two centuries of technical breakthroughs continue to shape one of watchmaking's oldest manufactures today.
